http://scienceblogs.com/
Just ran across this and I thought it was very reasonable and reflects a lot of what I've been trying to enact in my own life. Check it out.
Like many surfers, I am a fan of the Endless Summer films, but the original holds special value. To travel around the world and spread the joy of surf in a time when America was changing and foreign countries were really unknown landscapes to the average surfer is hands down amazing. When I watched the film, one remote exotic location stood out to me and its gentle peeling point wave has been in my mind ever since. I am not huge on the idea of conquests, and try to enjoy surfing and improving my water related abilities through fun more than goal setting, but I have always wanted to make it to Ahipara. The draw of Shipwreck Bay was huge and as we aren't horribly likely to be on this side of the Pacific for a while, I got to fulfill a thirteen year old dream and surf the spot. To get there, we had to visit the Far North, an area which has a reputation for being wild and even lawless. Leaving your car unattended is mostly out of the question. Given that this reputation had come from other surfers we had met who had their own possessions stolen, we were a bit nervous. This is the backcountry, with high poverty, biker gangs and some tourist destinations that are a two hour drive from the nearest hospital. Pulling off the highway, we quickly learned that the village was divided in two, with the local, mostly Maori population living somewhat separately from the stretch of vacant beach houses. Even in such a famous surf spot, road sections were unpaved and steep, including a drive down a riverbed to get to the beach. We parked, walked out and were greeted by the local pig, taking a stroll down the beach. When we got down to the beach, we discovered that the waves were only about 2 feet tall. No matter, they were beautiful! Even at such a size, the point broke perfectly over a smooth sand bottom. The ride was a miniature ball of cruizy fun and the tiny waves had a fantastic wall to sling across. I wish I had an Alaia there at the time, it would have been a fantastic proving ground. As the day's sets were sometimes far between, I had the opportunity to strike up a conversation with a true local, born and raised right on the hill above the break. Jade is a local surfer, Maori and all around great guy. Like many who live there, he lives off the land and sea, surfs as often as he can (he primarily stays over the sand bottom Shippies rather than rocks out of consideration for his young family, a choice I find honorable), and was truly hard. Busted a hole in your knee? Big ugly looking scar? Why go to the hospital, it'll heal. When he found out we were living out of our van, he didn't hesitate to invite us to stay in his yard and make use of his home. We stayed for three days and had an amazing time. Our host shared his quality life with us and made a hallowed, intimidating at first glance place grow into an area familiar and full of depth. Before we left, we exchanged gifts from what we had with us, expressing our gratitude and our hope to have left a mark on each other. As he had mentioned wanting to do more body surfing, I left him my first hand plane, and hope he enjoys it on the smaller days. More than any time on this trip, I felt the spirit of the place I was in. I am thankful for my host and his sharing with me the life of Tangata Whenua, the people of the land, with a great love for the place and the sea that that surrounds it.
For several years now, I have been enthusiastically following the adventures of a surfer/sailor who is literally living a dream life in the south pacific. Liz Clark, 28, is the captain of the good ship Swell and is a collegiate champion surfer currently sponsored by Patagonia. Liz chose to leave behind a world whose systems of consumption and goals of acquisition have become so damaging to the larger environment, and live closer to her ideals and closer to nature. Recently, I wrote to liz to tell her the impact her journey has made on me and to begin a discussion about our beliefs in environmentalism and the state of the world. I also offered to make her a surfboard. She accepted the offer and I finished the board only days before I left for New Zealand, with help with the woodburning and waxing from my good friend Sean. What resulted was a board I named Mandala, which was held by Patagonia while I flew to Aotearoa, and put on display there before being shipped to Liz while she was recently in California. Liz’s journey has also clearly taken on spiritual aspects and I felt like the ties to the Buddhist artwork expressing both beauty and impermanence, was relevant to the wonder and struggle in our natural world. Whether the board will make it to the reefs of the southern Pacific has yet to be seen, but I am honored to have a work of my hands in the possession of a talented and conscientious surfer. Liz blogs about her adventures, and many of the amazing people and causes in her life at www.swellvoyage.com. She has a segment in the woman made and woman focused flick Dear and Yonder and you can catch an interview she did with Korduroy.tv here.
Yes that’s right, Selkie is on long term hiatus in the land where vowels become strange. You drive on the lift (left), go up in a luft (lift= elevator) Wh is pronounced “f” and the letter g doesn’t always exist even when its in a word. For the next seven months I will be traveling, working and surfing in the truly magical land of New Zealand, and I owe many apologies to my thus far few readers for the lack of updates in the time spent preparing for and beginning this adventure. My hope is to continue to post my thoughts/ discoveries/ adventures surrounding surfing and green concepts as well as mix in travel blogs as I move around and seek out surf. New Zealand is a relatively environmentally conscious country, and my girlfriend and I have chosen to travel here in large part to experience a culture which embraces living well with the land and sea. I feel that these two types of posts should mix well and that I will probably have opportunities to share examples of eco conscious and healthy living as it is practiced by New Zealanders. So, over the next few weeks, look for a few catchup blogs with fantastical photography (provided by nature more than my camera skills), reflections on the origins of my company name and my own history, and next up, an exciting board that I finished just before I left which accompanies an exciting announcement. If you would like more detail on the travel side of our adventures as well as musings on simple living, my girlfriend is a much more avid blogger and has been writing on simple living, cooking, gardening, crafting and our travels for some time at Frolics From Scratch.